Thursday, March 08, 2007

Burma by accident - almost

After Chiang Khong I made the short trip north west to the point of the Golden Triangle, which is celebrated by a number of monuments, suggesting that people disagree where the actual point is or which monument is best to view that point through.



Then a simple ride up through some amazing hills turned into a bit of a trek which almost landed me in Burma. I basically missed a turning at an army checkpoint because I asked for directions to Fang and pointed ahead. The enthusiastic agreement suggested I was correct.

30kms up the road I still had not found the main road. Then the tarmac ran out, stopped dead, and turned into dusty gravel which led uphill to a village. I was immediately approached "You want go in?". Damn, that's not good news, go in where? Is that another country ahead?

I showed the villager the map and he seemed not to know where he was either. But he tried to read it anyway and I established after 5 seconds that I needed to turn around. 3 minutes later he was still reading the map along with 4 other helpers. But I extracted it and turned around and descended the rutted muddy road back to the tarmac.

Seconds later I am acosted by a scooter rider who has obviously continued the discussion about where I actually wanted to go so he insisted I follow him... to the turning? No, he was offering to lead me 30km to the correct road. I could not believe I was that far off the route.

Anyway, I stopped at the guard post again to ask another soldier, but the scooter rider did not stop. He did not come back. Perhaps he still thinks I am following him. Anyway the guard knew what I wanted and confirmed I was way off. But now that I knew where I was I was happy.

The road I should have been on was indeed fantastic and eventually led through to Fang. I seemed to be the only white person in town. I found a local inn which gave me the best night sleep since I arrived in Thailand and grabbed some local noodle soup.

By this point the bike's starter motor had packed up so I was jump starting it in first gear which was easy when hot. First thing in the morning was a different matter. I roped in the guesthouse manager who, watched by at least 4 others, pushed me by himself around the forecourt until I managed to pump enough fuel in and start it.

The return leg from Fang to Chiang Mai was easy and uneventful. I am in another guest house in CM until I fly on Sunday. I intend to take it easy, since 3 solid days at 12,000 rpm has taken its toll. Some reading and another massage are in order.

By Monday I'll be in Bristol. I am tired of solo travelling. Suddenly I realise I can't wait to be home.

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