Christchurch already.

Time for a few ramblings to catch you up with movements. I have done a lot of miles and in a short space of time seen too much to recount in detail. Interspersed with all the sights is the common theme of Kiwi hospitality.

I have quickly discovered how Kiwi hospitality works and we Brits have a lot to learn. When we meet someone and invite them to stay should they ever happen to pass by, we seldom actually mean it. This hollow gesture is seldom taken up, perhaps because people understand it as bravado, and those that don't are bemused by the surprise and indignation we display when some foreigner we vaguely remember invites himself for dinner and accomodation.

Here, I have mostly stayed with people who know people I hardly know.

In Takaka I stayed with some friends of a person I only met briefly in Wellington. I had my own room, ensuite, and was blessed with great hospitality, good conversation and the chance to go sea kayaking. I paddled out along the creek which leads from their property to the sea. The water was quite flat so I ventured further, out to the remains of a pier lined with birds who didn't flinch. Then I noticed a seal, lolling and playing in the waves just 15 feet away. Then suddenly a swish beneath me, the dappled markings of something moving fast enough to leave a cloud of sand and silt. The mother seal perhaps. The wind and the current seemed to increase so I paddled home. There I learned that the dappled swish was probably a basking sting ray. Glad I didn't know that at the time.

After Takaka, I headed south to Murchison where I met a friend of Alex the marine farmer. I was told I must call in for a cup of tea which turned out to be dinner as well. More Kiwi hospitality, the connection here being that I know Alex and would be passing the door.

Then after a couple of hours there I headed to the west coast, via the Buller Gorge which follows the wide and twisting course of the Buller River. At one point the two way road narrowed to one lane and cut in under an overhang in the steep sides of the gorge. It was dark, misty and like something from an arcade game.

After an overnight in a Westport hostel, I headed to Cape Foulwind for a beautiful but expensive breakfast overlooking the Cape, named by Captian Cook upon his arrival in 1642 on account of the fierce weather (not the after affects of the curry the night before).

Then, further down the coast to Punakaiki and the pancake rocks and then on to Arthur's Pass to cross the mountains which divide this island and on towards Christchurch. I passed by Oxford, through Sheffield and into the capital of the south island. Christchurch is different to other NZ cities. The highway into the city was narrower and more compact, more British feeling. Then as I reached the open space and trees of South Hagley Park it was like I had arrived in Roath Park, Cardiff. The houses, the trees, all very unexpectedly familiar. CC is spread out with few tall buildings but in its centre is planned on a US-style grid layout making for a strange twist of American conformity, British atmosphere and Kiwi culture.

After getting horrifically lost I bought a map so that I could continue to get lost but at least know how lost I really was. I am staying with the family of my friend Matt from Woodlands. They have insisted I stay as long as I want. There is no end to Kiwi generosity. Matthew will be here on the 9th and I will be spending Christmas with them along with the entire family who will be here all together for the first time in about 6 years. I met a sister in law yesterday. After only a few minutes of conversation I had a place to stay in Invercargill.

I recently posted a request on the Kiwi Biker forum for like-minded adventure riders to show me the off road routes. The online bikers use nicknames on screen and even in person. So PLUG and TRANSALPER took me on a stunning trip covering 225km and we spent all day Saturday exploring the cattle routes and goat tracks around the peninsula. Amazing views, unusual roads, exciting riding. And then to the KiwiBiker barbecue.

So, that is a brief view of the last 7 days. I aim to find some work here over the next 2 weeks. Christmas is almost upon us, with the promise of scorching weather and barbecues by the pool. It doesn't seem quite right but I think I will get used to it!